8ks today on a sumptuous pista cycable into Merano after 3 buses a huge tunnel and an uber friendly cycle train. Back to Suisse and then back to Italia. Quite different.
Why not simply ride as planned to Prato del Stelvio? A cinch at 48ks. Well yesterday at 14% I resolved to recognise my limitations and not struggle up with an extra 30kgs only to stress all the way down with the heavy braking. So today was a determined to be safe day.
A farewell to the very nice people at the Dante, post cards posted and then the first bus which was simply pop on board in the handicap position. An hour to Livigno.
Then one of those surreal moments where trust is required. The very helpful Bormio tourist office had given me a complete itinerary so I was not all together out in the cold. Anyway bus driver in Italian tells me to get of in the wonderful clear sunshine of Livigno centro bus stop....alpine hills all around...no - one to pay for a ticket to the next stage....no one to ask...simply beautiful surroundings....so wait and trust.....
Then a very friendly english speaking bus driver arrives....knows where I'm to go tells me to de-valise the bike and hangs it by the front wheel (remember she's tender there with the loose wheel bearing) so I hastily remove her tool sac, brand new odometer, bottles (still carrying Stelvio water) and assist. He's a bandaged forefinger. Friendly soul he waits while I pile 5 bags into the bus bowel.
He then drives me through a very long bicycle verboten tunnel....3.6 ks after a very lovely alpine lake. As we emerge we are in Suisse. He dumps me again alone unceremoniously besides a suisse bike route sign...so familiar....saying wait 10 minutes. ...
As told a Swiss bus driver appears and with a cruel schnell schnell orders me to de- baggage again and rehangs my steed at the back of the bus this time donning gloves and waving away any assistance binding her with a very tight velcro strap.
I join a swiss filled bus who frown as I board. We drive for 60 minutes and then encounter a troop of antique tractors who in groups of three try valiantly to let the bus pass by. Our bus takes ridiculous risks at one stage I was white knuckled and adopting the brace position. All only to stop in multiple small villages and thence only to see the tractor brigade grind past in their Swiss hats. Again the stupidly close passing.....finally the first tractor is passed at which the driver lets off an obscenely loud foghorn honking after which the passengers all laugh uproariously. .
The driver then explained we'd be late but not so much as the week before with 5000 veloistes...again laughing and clapping...so glad to be off that crazy bus and regretting observing my limitations.....
Then the super cool train with an automatic ticket dispenser that required s a uniformed human to make head or tail of it....I'm sitting there for an hour and then start to see cyclists whizzing along on the other side of the crashingly fast river.....I wait for the next stop with a bridge and junp off with the bike to join for 8ks a perfect bike path to pretty tree lined Merano.
Planning to camp I wend my way into the centro tourist informstion only to miss by 5 minutes...loo stop....
Return to a youth hostel passed along the way and get given a group room for the price of a camping site...plus 10% off dinner ....as well as breakfast included from 7.30. Very friendly.
Am served by a mother of four who has spent nearly a year travelling australia far more extensively than I. A reminder to examine home options. I just love the ever present European history over here.....
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