The bike path finally ran out today so I'm in Bormio after 54ks riding to Sondrio, a train to Tirano and then an hour on the bus to Bormio. I'm told I can ride over Stelvio to Prato del Stelvio and that there is a signed bikepath to Merano and then Bolzano. From where I can catch the Eurovelo again.
So today feels like cheating but without a path off the main roads the natural holiday cycling experience is lost completely and I'm here to have a good experience.
So today's ride was a bit Arthur or Martha. The Risi hotel in Colico was fab. Old, hearty and grand everyone was friendly and the handpainted ceilings were great. Gravel start followed by 15ks of tarred towpath up the Adda fiume called the Sentieri Valtellina route. Great while it lasted. I had no dedicated map to be fair. Again the little half heard words at the Como tourist office..."may not be complete yet".....such hubris on my behalf to imagine I'd be able to work it out riding...
At one stage after a k up of easily 12% (I was forced to walk for the first time this trip)......the paved road turns into "brutale" single track downhill made up of large stones. I trusted the emphatic instructions and another 2ks later over a fantastic stainless steel bike bridge I'm back with signs etc...then another 5ks on farmers lanes next to the railway..just too varied without warning and mud is not my thing. All the while snowcaps are looming into view.and the river Adda's rushing back down the hill to its rendezvous in Lago di Como. A nice tree shaded lunch by an expensive golfcourse then path completely lost again. And I also spend time on the highway. I resolve to take the train. Not so easy only goes to Tirano..then bus. Bus was going 5 mins after train arrives I run ride, stress, down ramps up ramps to the busticket (bustass morelike) office buy tickets and pop the bike fully loaded into the wheelchair space in the middle. We wind and bump our way up to the fabled Bormio.
It really is full of cyclists and motor bikers. The lady Fosey managing the Ufficio di Touristiche is extremely helpful with maps of every pista cyclable in the region including the one I needed today. The camping was 6k out of town and the alternative is bike friendly hotel Dante for 40€ a night mit breakfast. I was undone in my camping resolve by their cycling friendliness. Very comfortable and even has the footpump ready. There must be 20 cyclists here. The madame insisted on taking my washing. I had to give it her.... honest... in return for my passport back. She told me she used only 40 degrees hot water. I will try to recompense her somehow. Obviously the hotel basin handwash was too much for the owner's sensibilities.
So the cyclepath thing is not quite as efficient here in Italia and once lost the day gets crushed by fast traffic and loud noisy roads. Am I spoilt by the off road paths? Emphatically yes. It's the only way to be safe and able to enjoy the scenery even if it is blau elephant free. I cover a lot more ground guided by the little panneau I can tell you.
Anyway a big part of this trip is Passo del Stelvio and Bormio is packed with other adherents of the crazy dream. So I decided to attempt a dry run tomorrow, with empty bike and stay an extra night before attempting it bevalised so to speak.
Missing home a bit. Had a dream where Jaz ran across a field and jumped into my arms licking my face.....just like the movies....this 2700 meter mountain is a goal of this adventure so will have a go at it tomorrow feeling lighter.
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