Not sure how tomorrow will be but sleep will no doubt enrich the humorousness of the world.
Thursday, September 30, 2010
Mantova
The ducal Palazzo today was a regal feast. The Mantegna frescoes did not dissapoint. The security women were tough and unbecoming of so rich an experience. The word corte took on new meaning. The road home was not conducive to friendliness. The dinner afterwards was.
Not sure how tomorrow will be but sleep will no doubt enrich the humorousness of the world.
Not sure how tomorrow will be but sleep will no doubt enrich the humorousness of the world.
Mantova
Wed 28th
After a satisfying and early breakfast most of which I feared to eat lest clog set in again we climbed back up onto the Po path, Our hostess was very lovely and gave Sheila home grown Nigella seeds which are good for bowels. On the road by 9.30.…..
We then had a wonderful day’s ride down the fiume Po past power plants, and plantations and vegetable patches and small towns. Sunny with cool head wind we followed the Destre Po until just after Sustenatte where we lunched on small pieces of expensive bread after establishing the ristorante chiuso. Bad Pullman filled road there and an absolutely wonderful Euro Velo 7 piste cyclabile along the river banks at the backs of all the towns. Little brown signs and every now and again a bigger one at intersections. Sometimes a chair and sometimes a more fulsome map as one enters or leaves counties. Great fun having the height of the levee bank path (two stories or more) to view the little streets for whatever we were needing, lunch, bancomat, etc…
The last section 15ks proved to be a levee bank without asphelt along the banks of Mantova’s fiume the Mincio which falls from the bottom of Lago di Garda and then joins the Po. A lovely summer arvo of lonely bike path (hard to find) populated with a solo Senora makin’ her way from town to who knows where….
Stopping at a B and B sign we are lead by car to another which is open in Bagnolo San Vito which is where we are for two nights hoping to accomplish the 10k’s to Mantova on empty bikes tomorrow with less trouble and expense.
A nice pizza in town followed by a dark ride home has finished us off after wait for it a 60k day……flat though it may have been….
After a satisfying and early breakfast most of which I feared to eat lest clog set in again we climbed back up onto the Po path, Our hostess was very lovely and gave Sheila home grown Nigella seeds which are good for bowels. On the road by 9.30.…..
We then had a wonderful day’s ride down the fiume Po past power plants, and plantations and vegetable patches and small towns. Sunny with cool head wind we followed the Destre Po until just after Sustenatte where we lunched on small pieces of expensive bread after establishing the ristorante chiuso. Bad Pullman filled road there and an absolutely wonderful Euro Velo 7 piste cyclabile along the river banks at the backs of all the towns. Little brown signs and every now and again a bigger one at intersections. Sometimes a chair and sometimes a more fulsome map as one enters or leaves counties. Great fun having the height of the levee bank path (two stories or more) to view the little streets for whatever we were needing, lunch, bancomat, etc…
The last section 15ks proved to be a levee bank without asphelt along the banks of Mantova’s fiume the Mincio which falls from the bottom of Lago di Garda and then joins the Po. A lovely summer arvo of lonely bike path (hard to find) populated with a solo Senora makin’ her way from town to who knows where….
Stopping at a B and B sign we are lead by car to another which is open in Bagnolo San Vito which is where we are for two nights hoping to accomplish the 10k’s to Mantova on empty bikes tomorrow with less trouble and expense.
A nice pizza in town followed by a dark ride home has finished us off after wait for it a 60k day……flat though it may have been….
Bagnolo San Vito
Tuesday 27th September
After a very nice pestou pasta last night cooked by the taciturn but helpful and excellent chef of the modigliani locanda and bar and sleeping well despite the auto sunroof and mild rain we set off to find another ‘otel and thereby accomplish a 57 k empty bike circuit around the Po delta.
Not to be. Back to the notably unfriendly tourist info castello and then away itching to ride to the first town on the prementioned circuit. Misguided we end up on a highway looping backwards and forwards in an effort to find the Burana canale. A return to the station and a friendly bike shop person enabled us out of town and onto the canal and thence Po Destre (right hand bank) bike path. To our great relief this path elevated and lined by poplars dispelled any industrialised gloom.
The path was long predictable and culminated in a very welcome and tree shaded lunch spot. The owner was voluble with good inglese and bestowed an excellent two taste pasta with hot toast “shoes” to mop it all up with. Then she made our day easy by describing her preference for Mantova over Modena, At a mere pip of 97ks we are now on our way to see the Mantegna at Mantova which has long been a dream of mine. There are bike paths most of the route besides fiume Po or Mincini. Which makes it easy to find one’s way and the gradient suitable for our overloaded bikes.
Today I lost my humour with Ferrara an otherwise pretty medieval and walled place with a preponderance of bicycles only to regain it on the riverside paths which abound in these parts. Pavarotti helped my cycling partner to enjoy the lovely clouded Italian countryside.
The rain set in as we left the Ferrara county and a small green B and B sign welcomed us off a wet stretch of path and into a horse stud agritourismo. We have a wonderful room with shower and Sheila assures me our little cash will pay for everything…..
I always can muck out stables if need be……
After a very nice pestou pasta last night cooked by the taciturn but helpful and excellent chef of the modigliani locanda and bar and sleeping well despite the auto sunroof and mild rain we set off to find another ‘otel and thereby accomplish a 57 k empty bike circuit around the Po delta.
Not to be. Back to the notably unfriendly tourist info castello and then away itching to ride to the first town on the prementioned circuit. Misguided we end up on a highway looping backwards and forwards in an effort to find the Burana canale. A return to the station and a friendly bike shop person enabled us out of town and onto the canal and thence Po Destre (right hand bank) bike path. To our great relief this path elevated and lined by poplars dispelled any industrialised gloom.
The path was long predictable and culminated in a very welcome and tree shaded lunch spot. The owner was voluble with good inglese and bestowed an excellent two taste pasta with hot toast “shoes” to mop it all up with. Then she made our day easy by describing her preference for Mantova over Modena, At a mere pip of 97ks we are now on our way to see the Mantegna at Mantova which has long been a dream of mine. There are bike paths most of the route besides fiume Po or Mincini. Which makes it easy to find one’s way and the gradient suitable for our overloaded bikes.
Today I lost my humour with Ferrara an otherwise pretty medieval and walled place with a preponderance of bicycles only to regain it on the riverside paths which abound in these parts. Pavarotti helped my cycling partner to enjoy the lovely clouded Italian countryside.
The rain set in as we left the Ferrara county and a small green B and B sign welcomed us off a wet stretch of path and into a horse stud agritourismo. We have a wonderful room with shower and Sheila assures me our little cash will pay for everything…..
I always can muck out stables if need be……
Monday, September 27, 2010
Ferrara
Rain is on the cards again tomorrow but we are determined to don our rain legs and accomplish some more tow path this time on the Po Fiume. Wish us duck......
Venezia
The Palazzo di Doges today left me astounded at the sheer quantity and quality of the Venetian empire and their attention to the grandiose statement and delightful historical ceiling. Gold leafed life size faces all beardy staring down at the mavellers for 500 odd years...and a series of marble knees sculpted to lean over the edge of vast rooms filled with the heraldry of a bygone macho empire. I see now what Lanfranco's statement about Lurano being at the very edge of the Venetian empire and I was amazed by the grandeur of his well worn outpost ,,,then to see the salle de magiore consigli and really be blown away......nothing not even the Vatican prepares one for the huge gold strewn expanse of Veronese, Tintoretto and Bassano interspersed with faux marble and inlay work, real marble limbs and glorious terrazzo plains......nice to understand a tiny part of some real grandeur...all offset by a very humble wooden dais for the throne...
The rest of Venice was tourist overload...vaporetti, restauranti, and shop staff quail before the onslaught of the 1000,s that flow like another tide through select avenues of the bejewelled narrow streets....how eager they were to wade at high tide through the notorious waters of the canal as it swept up pungently into the damaged san marco piazza....not even a 150euro gumboots could persuade me to wade through that particular mire.
Then in an hour it all subsides and it is as if no-one except Whistler had ever seen the waters rise past the gondolier posts...the locals I noticed had the good sense not to engage in foot bathing preferring to elegantly wait as their Doges obviously had in eras past watching from their raised and shuttered fiinestrei...
Again Bassano impressed me with his humble lambs and well defined portraits...
A luxurious dinner together after avoiding some noisy americanos by the canal while the sun set and moon rose mad e the day for both of us a special and romantic memory.....
The rest of Venice was tourist overload...vaporetti, restauranti, and shop staff quail before the onslaught of the 1000,s that flow like another tide through select avenues of the bejewelled narrow streets....how eager they were to wade at high tide through the notorious waters of the canal as it swept up pungently into the damaged san marco piazza....not even a 150euro gumboots could persuade me to wade through that particular mire.
Then in an hour it all subsides and it is as if no-one except Whistler had ever seen the waters rise past the gondolier posts...the locals I noticed had the good sense not to engage in foot bathing preferring to elegantly wait as their Doges obviously had in eras past watching from their raised and shuttered fiinestrei...
Again Bassano impressed me with his humble lambs and well defined portraits...
A luxurious dinner together after avoiding some noisy americanos by the canal while the sun set and moon rose mad e the day for both of us a special and romantic memory.....
Padova
Giotto's wonderful surrealist (only 800 years before) and weird biblical references seemed so fresh and alive after recent restoration.....well ongoing if the scaffold means anything.. The museum attached had some very fine Veronese huge things with beheadings and silent horses and glorious amazement. Wonderful over the top exaggerated stuff and as always worth the 2 hour wait via timed ticket and the 18 euros for Sheila.....the ICOM card is saving us a small fortune.
The sisters of beleville ran the 2star albergo just behind the train station accessed via the pee smelling bicycle path filled with vomitous residues....and cooked us cake fresh for prima collazione...cheery old ducks with a good sense of humour despite the varying levels of comprehension as our Aussie accents prove inscrutable,
At 60euros a night they prove our hostesses for two nights as tomorrow we shall be wading through Venetian treasures.
Spanish (not) pizza dinner was lovely after a brief walk through Padova's Bulgari infested walking streets. The chef was friendly and shook our hands as we left praising a very light and well cooked meal.
Tomorrow train to Venezia...
The sisters of beleville ran the 2star albergo just behind the train station accessed via the pee smelling bicycle path filled with vomitous residues....and cooked us cake fresh for prima collazione...cheery old ducks with a good sense of humour despite the varying levels of comprehension as our Aussie accents prove inscrutable,
At 60euros a night they prove our hostesses for two nights as tomorrow we shall be wading through Venetian treasures.
Spanish (not) pizza dinner was lovely after a brief walk through Padova's Bulgari infested walking streets. The chef was friendly and shook our hands as we left praising a very light and well cooked meal.
Friday, September 24, 2010
Rovereto
Then a cafe at the bici grill to slake our coffee thirst. Then into Rovereto after pedal adjustments. Finally the correct fountain was found just in time for the very friendly Tourist Information before siesta time closed in.. Past a big but tasty gelati so big it could only be shared , two stuttgartian fellow veloistes and then onto Hotel Sant Illario as it will be rain tomorrow we will be on the train again to Mestre to see Padova or Venezia after that.
Legs are good, net is working as we sit in the first verandah yet and zuppa vegetariana awaits what more could two people in ,love ask for?
The Val Adige was flat but fun. I get the feeling the real riding was around us as we plod along the super flat middle path of least resistance. Trentino was very rich with visual stimulation. This trip was never about making hero/ines of ourselves rather the dolce vita.
Thursday, September 23, 2010
trentino castello
Trentino proved absolutely sparkling today with a brief but tough hill and tunnel to Cesare Battista's fine memorial and foret. The woman's marble bottom in the fine fontaine was also a glory to behold. Then came the Duomo with its mix of Baroque whiter than white and the ubiquitous red streak. I particulary like the four twisted columns ala Roma and then large lidded boxes of bishops bones that occupied every spare space along the walls. The Madonnna with the sword into her chest with a baby offering her a hanky to mop up the tears of motherhood.....propaganda is an old and useful art.
Moser's shop with all his old photos of heroes and Giros in the snow and rain......new nicks for better half...
Siesta with smelly cheese and then out again on the bici to the castello bounonsiglio which was an amazing and over the top place. Frescoes like I've never seen followed by a glass bead display with truly beautiful african beaded shirts and funny hats with pecking beaks....
Then Pizza in the hotel portico with gelati and an excellent vino rossi..... what more could one ask for?
A bike path without struggle tomorrow perhaps/ yes that exists for us also...
Moser's shop with all his old photos of heroes and Giros in the snow and rain......new nicks for better half...
Siesta with smelly cheese and then out again on the bici to the castello bounonsiglio which was an amazing and over the top place. Frescoes like I've never seen followed by a glass bead display with truly beautiful african beaded shirts and funny hats with pecking beaks....
Then Pizza in the hotel portico with gelati and an excellent vino rossi..... what more could one ask for?
A bike path without struggle tomorrow perhaps/ yes that exists for us also...
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
Trento
Thinking to reduce profligacy we decided to stay in a hostel in Bolzen. What a mistake. E70 and we were deposited in a students room with two beds. Breakfast was pitiable and the room tiny and obviously not what we were promised at the tourist info, then to boot we had this insufferable priest telling me to walk three blocks to get cash and then tried to shake my hand at the end.....I was livid and not oin a good state..... when I complained both to peiropaulo and the Tourist information without any reduction and left the place feeling bad. Coffee and markets and then a beautiful bike path out of Bolzen lifted my spirits again...Straight down the Adige this time with the Dolomiti plunging into the valley on either side. A pair of German girls fully loaded Ortliebs of course had a book which reassured us from time to time of the proximity to Trentino.
The hotel for hot feet was great, just off the path and WiFi to boot with a lift. guess what only E90..
Sheila and I were very grateful for the friendly staff and the lack of four pages of rules ...just the price which was lacking in the crooked Don Bosco dump...
The ride today was beautiful though long at nearly 60ks.
The hotel for hot feet was great, just off the path and WiFi to boot with a lift. guess what only E90..
Sheila and I were very grateful for the friendly staff and the lack of four pages of rules ...just the price which was lacking in the crooked Don Bosco dump...
The ride today was beautiful though long at nearly 60ks.
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
bolzano again
Laughing leaving in the morning after copious coffee of our generous and erudite hosts.
A brief turn of wheels before Treviglio after the compulsory visit to the Bianchi factory to get good deals.
The train was very easy and once the bikes were hooked up we were ok.
Verona briefly and then a 3 hour train trip to Bolzano past the path we will achieve in the next few days.....
Weather is good and we are happy and healthy touch wood.
A brief turn of wheels before Treviglio after the compulsory visit to the Bianchi factory to get good deals.
The train was very easy and once the bikes were hooked up we were ok.
Verona briefly and then a 3 hour train trip to Bolzano past the path we will achieve in the next few days.....
Weather is good and we are happy and healthy touch wood.
Bergamo balls and smokin horses
We recieved a personal tour today of the colleoni temple with its testicular entrance duly observed as Joe C and Lino told me.
Then the church with it's smoking horse and Lotto's oddball wooden interasa. Then a glorious walk around the town to view the aqueduct and bibleotec.
Dinner with friends of our hosts who quizzed us as to the price of a hectare of vines down under..
Sleep again with a wonderful rumpled bed filled with macho dreams.....
Then the church with it's smoking horse and Lotto's oddball wooden interasa. Then a glorious walk around the town to view the aqueduct and bibleotec.
Dinner with friends of our hosts who quizzed us as to the price of a hectare of vines down under..
Sleep again with a wonderful rumpled bed filled with macho dreams.....
Gormanghast is
Day dawned crystal clear and hot as we trained it to Verdello and then rode 10 ks to wonderful Lan franco and Federika's enormous old Italian castello.
We we given a tour of room after room with painted ceilings and a glorious view over enclosed courtyards.
The day became very sociable and our minds met in a peaceful and real fashion.
Went to sleep in a huge bed surrounded by antique furniture and 6 metre painted ceilings to dream under.
We we given a tour of room after room with painted ceilings and a glorious view over enclosed courtyards.
The day became very sociable and our minds met in a peaceful and real fashion.
Went to sleep in a huge bed surrounded by antique furniture and 6 metre painted ceilings to dream under.
Drowning in Alpine rain
The whole day has been depressingly wet and we travelled by ferry and train to Bergamo where we thawed out in the 3 star piedmontese. No photos too wet.
Friday, September 17, 2010
Bellagio Maddonnas and Varrenna
Friday 17th sep
Today we separate for the day and I take to the hills behind Bellagio….I am surprised by the 14% road up to the Maddonaa del Ghisello and the nearby cycling Musee/ Both prove to be worth every minute of an hours hard climb. The musee has everything Coppis wooden wheels and bartoli’s smiling face in bronze.. The church was really strange with bicycles in the ceiling and the maddonna feeding the baby jesus with a bidon hahahaa…
I meet aussies and discuss Pantani’s hill climbing. There is his bike and smile everyone is illustrated so debonair….then back down with squeaky brakes…..
Off by ferry to Varrenna with 100 well dressed americans as part of the wedding party. Rode another ten k to the torre at the top of the Varrenna hilltop complete with falcons and an owls. The tower was well represented with stones in the wall for steps…
Today we separate for the day and I take to the hills behind Bellagio….I am surprised by the 14% road up to the Maddonaa del Ghisello and the nearby cycling Musee/ Both prove to be worth every minute of an hours hard climb. The musee has everything Coppis wooden wheels and bartoli’s smiling face in bronze.. The church was really strange with bicycles in the ceiling and the maddonna feeding the baby jesus with a bidon hahahaa…
I meet aussies and discuss Pantani’s hill climbing. There is his bike and smile everyone is illustrated so debonair….then back down with squeaky brakes…..
Off by ferry to Varrenna with 100 well dressed americans as part of the wedding party. Rode another ten k to the torre at the top of the Varrenna hilltop complete with falcons and an owls. The tower was well represented with stones in the wall for steps…
Trains and ferries Lecco
Thursday 16th Sep
Train to Lecco and ferry to Belagio..
The Silvio apartment is spacious and comfortable. We are here for two nights. The Pizza man tells me about the Maddonne del Ghissello and pats his belly as reason when asked why he does not scale the hillsides in her honour.
Train to Lecco and ferry to Belagio..
The Silvio apartment is spacious and comfortable. We are here for two nights. The Pizza man tells me about the Maddonne del Ghissello and pats his belly as reason when asked why he does not scale the hillsides in her honour.
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
Adda Fiume wow
Wed 16th Sept
Today's ride was one of the best ever rivalling Kilarney for sheer beauty.
We atarted out in the techno Park hotel having a big breakfast as dad suggested.
Then the path along the Navigli Martenese was gravel and beautiful. Then a steep detour and a torre to view after crossing the A4 in a bridge.
Then along the Adda river fro 20ks of dream forest landscape and glorious water falls and views. Just simply marvelous. The path was a tad lumpy in places and yet Da Vinci's fiume more than made up for the mild rattle.
Green with forest sweeping down tot eh river with the first touches of gold autumn. Wild torrents leaping at times into the navigli along the side.....
Wed 15th sep
The Fiume d’Adda where Leonardo cogitated proved a spectacularly wonderful cycle path. 30 odd Ks from Casana D’adda to Brivio were simply out of this world. A navigli for the morning and a roaring river for the arvo, Gravel most of the way and then truncated before reaching Lecco at Brivio but truly beautiful. Overgrown locks and cataracts around sudden stone cornered walls were cool and shady treats. Our first outdoor cuchina with espresso and grapes for lunch. Really grateful to Alison Turner in Pedal; Power for her recommendation We pulled up tired in Cisana after crossing the narrow bridge at Brivio and stayed at the wonderful Fatur hotel and restaurant. The meal was simply wonderful with a goats cheese terrine and a very finely made lasagne with eggplant and sweet potato. Crème brulee for desert. Nice people and a really woody and reasonable room.
Finally Brivio and it all runs out ....two hotels later we are at the Fatur a very lovely hotel with very friendly staff.
Some omeopatica calendula for sore toes and bieri for sunburnt faces and we are normal again....
Really really lovely riding today.
102 hotel 8 gelati
Today's ride was one of the best ever rivalling Kilarney for sheer beauty.
We atarted out in the techno Park hotel having a big breakfast as dad suggested.
Then the path along the Navigli Martenese was gravel and beautiful. Then a steep detour and a torre to view after crossing the A4 in a bridge.
Then along the Adda river fro 20ks of dream forest landscape and glorious water falls and views. Just simply marvelous. The path was a tad lumpy in places and yet Da Vinci's fiume more than made up for the mild rattle.
Green with forest sweeping down tot eh river with the first touches of gold autumn. Wild torrents leaping at times into the navigli along the side.....
Wed 15th sep
The Fiume d’Adda where Leonardo cogitated proved a spectacularly wonderful cycle path. 30 odd Ks from Casana D’adda to Brivio were simply out of this world. A navigli for the morning and a roaring river for the arvo, Gravel most of the way and then truncated before reaching Lecco at Brivio but truly beautiful. Overgrown locks and cataracts around sudden stone cornered walls were cool and shady treats. Our first outdoor cuchina with espresso and grapes for lunch. Really grateful to Alison Turner in Pedal; Power for her recommendation We pulled up tired in Cisana after crossing the narrow bridge at Brivio and stayed at the wonderful Fatur hotel and restaurant. The meal was simply wonderful with a goats cheese terrine and a very finely made lasagne with eggplant and sweet potato. Crème brulee for desert. Nice people and a really woody and reasonable room.
Finally Brivio and it all runs out ....two hotels later we are at the Fatur a very lovely hotel with very friendly staff.
Some omeopatica calendula for sore toes and bieri for sunburnt faces and we are normal again....
Really really lovely riding today.
102 hotel 8 gelati
Techno park hotel
Tuesday 14th
Brilliant happy breakfast in the green room and Mussolini’s batons are revived. 37k of navigli proved a wonderful start tour cycle vacation.
Two men school teachers so far from their wives and the old lady in white on the path with an american past……
4 stars hotel and the concierge can talk….Tommy emmanual and his 30 minutes of fame….
The path today along the navigli was surprisingly beautiful....Lunch was very good....
Hot sunburned and late to eat but happy all the same..
Brilliant happy breakfast in the green room and Mussolini’s batons are revived. 37k of navigli proved a wonderful start tour cycle vacation.
Two men school teachers so far from their wives and the old lady in white on the path with an american past……
4 stars hotel and the concierge can talk….Tommy emmanual and his 30 minutes of fame….
The path today along the navigli was surprisingly beautiful....Lunch was very good....
Hot sunburned and late to eat but happy all the same..
TGV breaks down Paris to Modane
We find ourselves with an extra day in Paris and ride to the Bastille after saying goodbye to our hosts Chantal and Gerome who were very nice and even rescued our bikes from a midnight tide of sewerage through their cave or donjon as I joked with them. I awoke to hear the distinctive sound of a falling mop handle,
The day then proceeded to the Jardin des plantes and the big black woman’s laugh as we suggested making crepes was an art mystereuse.
Two big beers at the station while the old man was removed from behind blue curtains on the platform made for gas emissions all night long.
The train forced a deafening rush to break down the bikes and get them bagged up for nothing really.
Then on board with brilliant Pony’s help and the train breaks down… ho hum we get to do it all again for the bus trip through the most amazingly beautiful alpine scenery. The old black fella with two pens and a suit felt so useful when he got to help with the black mammas baby ahip super heavy bags…love is in the world everyday….
Dead beat at 11.37 and we reconstruct the bikes in record time in the middle of the road on a concrete circle. Then to the htel Flora and the it was awake and we had the best room with green everything and a really dead to the world sleep.
Sunday, September 12, 2010
Glorious day at church
Lovely day today, in love, on metro or climbing our own stairway to heaven
We are both feeling a lot less jaded and today dawned cloudy and rained dung breakfast, it was Sheila's day en Paris so I was all ears. Bikes were to be forgotten and the metro employed to get us around.
Civvies on and off to the old Roman baths converted into Cluny. The Licorne was still there to amuse us and a collection of medieval knives and other Sunday objects. We laughed at how the postcard wish had come true after all these years. Then off to the Madeleine Mary Magdelenes fine 1800's retrro tribute. The fine thing was the uplifted stone breast on one side of the church and the staid mother and baby scene directly across haha I know which one I'd be praying for.....
Lunch was great even as I gave back the undercharged 10 euros to the macho waiter....
Then off to Montmartre the artists colony through which threaded our stairway up and up and up.... A quick circuit of an absolutely massive almost eastern gold mosaics and divine essence pouring into peoples mouths.....
Beer and oversize shoes later we zapped home to book our Milan hotel....we will be on the Adda river soon to share the view with Da Vinci who died in Amboise.....
We are both feeling a lot less jaded and today dawned cloudy and rained dung breakfast, it was Sheila's day en Paris so I was all ears. Bikes were to be forgotten and the metro employed to get us around.
Civvies on and off to the old Roman baths converted into Cluny. The Licorne was still there to amuse us and a collection of medieval knives and other Sunday objects. We laughed at how the postcard wish had come true after all these years. Then off to the Madeleine Mary Magdelenes fine 1800's retrro tribute. The fine thing was the uplifted stone breast on one side of the church and the staid mother and baby scene directly across haha I know which one I'd be praying for.....
Lunch was great even as I gave back the undercharged 10 euros to the macho waiter....
Then off to Montmartre the artists colony through which threaded our stairway up and up and up.... A quick circuit of an absolutely massive almost eastern gold mosaics and divine essence pouring into peoples mouths.....
Beer and oversize shoes later we zapped home to book our Milan hotel....we will be on the Adda river soon to share the view with Da Vinci who died in Amboise.....
Saturday, September 11, 2010
Pompidou centre
Today was a revelation with roomfuls of art. The whole of the Pompidou experience is a treat for the senses.outside escalators and inside rooms framed over a view extraordinaire of Paris. Brilliant Kandinsky and Brancusi and Roualt and Duchamp. Met Fiona from work and her friend who'd achieved a lot of Alps and the Pyrenees with loaded bikes.
Yoghurt was hung on handlebars and then strangely before our eyes removed by persons inscrutable.
Lunch was a feast of faces eggs and mushrooms delivered tardily, The trip home was bus filled with youngsters dancing on their heads and a trip to the Gare de Lyon to book the TGV mit husse a milani now on monday to arrive at 10 at night.
The paint shop proved absolutely the most intensive art materials experience ever and was a worthy journey.
We are extended for another night and with some relief as I thought to have to find accommodation as well tomorrow... but no ....reprieve.
Feel more normal and sleep is required at the normal times......
e35 lunch e 10 Pompidou Coffees e21 Monoprix e23 total e89
Yoghurt was hung on handlebars and then strangely before our eyes removed by persons inscrutable.
Lunch was a feast of faces eggs and mushrooms delivered tardily, The trip home was bus filled with youngsters dancing on their heads and a trip to the Gare de Lyon to book the TGV mit husse a milani now on monday to arrive at 10 at night.
The paint shop proved absolutely the most intensive art materials experience ever and was a worthy journey.
We are extended for another night and with some relief as I thought to have to find accommodation as well tomorrow... but no ....reprieve.
Feel more normal and sleep is required at the normal times......
e35 lunch e 10 Pompidou Coffees e21 Monoprix e23 total e89
Friday, September 10, 2010
pas de gonfleur
We awoke rhyming and laughing at 4am The day dawned sweetly and we hung out for le petit dejeuner which proved welcome with muesli and some creme fraisse for the baguettes. The coffee was nor exactly my cup of tea. Les velos were hurriedly removed from their overnight stay dans le donjon with the spiral staircase of ancient flag stones.
Off to find the gonfleur via the wrong side of Cimitere Montparnasse soft tyres not even the magazin des velos would assist. or the scooter shop. so in the end pumped them up with Shane's little silver pumps that we carry each religiously. they work.
Then off to the old camper via the lovely jardin de luxembourg where we see a fountain in honour of Delacroix by Jules Dalou yes the same as the little clay models at the NGA.
On and up to the Pantheon gradually gaining confidence to ride in the road. We australians are so very cautious and the traffic in Paris while heavy is very very courteous to les velos. We rode helmet free which also made me much more cautious and while getting used to wrong side of road. There are many more bicycle paths to choose this time..Old Voltaire's box which does not even have his bits therein. He is such a hero and to see his tomb again was great.
Then panini and exspresso with les eleves in the rue mouffetard was heavenly and the nature shop for la dentifrice and sunflower seeds and moisturizer also.
Then a hot walk and ride back to the vielle campeur for the maps and gaz. The manager remembered me from trois ans depuis and was very friendly. The maps were also tres friendly but lacking the essential ones...the tom tom rings their death knell.......we decided.
Back to Sheila resting in the park and onto the rue des ecoles for a tasse de the vivaine and jus d'orange.
Then a quick ride up the b/vrd Saint Michel and loop around the cimitere and we are home to shower and rest by 4pm. The bikes chained to the park benignly guarded by dog eared Chaim Soutine.with his perforated ulcer.
The net and service here are wonderful and to be recommended as the gare and cycle shop are all very close.
cafe e5 panini e7 health food shop e27 the e10 maps e18 gaz e4.50 equals 71.50
Off to find the gonfleur via the wrong side of Cimitere Montparnasse soft tyres not even the magazin des velos would assist. or the scooter shop. so in the end pumped them up with Shane's little silver pumps that we carry each religiously. they work.
Then off to the old camper via the lovely jardin de luxembourg where we see a fountain in honour of Delacroix by Jules Dalou yes the same as the little clay models at the NGA.
On and up to the Pantheon gradually gaining confidence to ride in the road. We australians are so very cautious and the traffic in Paris while heavy is very very courteous to les velos. We rode helmet free which also made me much more cautious and while getting used to wrong side of road. There are many more bicycle paths to choose this time..Old Voltaire's box which does not even have his bits therein. He is such a hero and to see his tomb again was great.
Then panini and exspresso with les eleves in the rue mouffetard was heavenly and the nature shop for la dentifrice and sunflower seeds and moisturizer also.
Then a hot walk and ride back to the vielle campeur for the maps and gaz. The manager remembered me from trois ans depuis and was very friendly. The maps were also tres friendly but lacking the essential ones...the tom tom rings their death knell.......we decided.
Back to Sheila resting in the park and onto the rue des ecoles for a tasse de the vivaine and jus d'orange.
Then a quick ride up the b/vrd Saint Michel and loop around the cimitere and we are home to shower and rest by 4pm. The bikes chained to the park benignly guarded by dog eared Chaim Soutine.with his perforated ulcer.
The net and service here are wonderful and to be recommended as the gare and cycle shop are all very close.
cafe e5 panini e7 health food shop e27 the e10 maps e18 gaz e4.50 equals 71.50
Thursday, September 9, 2010
Thursday 9 Sept wonderful Paris city of belles
Landed in the wonderful city of 9 million belles we discovered today. The journey was long with a 6 oclock start in the frost and a rush to catch the plane before the one we'd booked which was cancelled unexpectedly). a huge electrical storm in Hong Kong forced another two hour wait with bright lightening to assist the surreal. Ma femme une pilote)was completely at ease so I became so too. devil may care at 20,000 feet with the most intense bursts of light below climbing the trees of clouds and flowering into the most divine display of thunderbolts. Barbs quality chocolate gift was a similar godsend resurrecting spaced out travelers with delightful mouth explosions.
The taxi driver was from Homg kong as well and took us the whole way in eliminating the 4 minute walk with bikes that I'd been dreading for two years in a single well spoken stroke. The ceramic cups and saucers that exactly resembled crumpled plastic ones were a surrealist treat as we began to fall back into australian time at 2pm.
The bikes quickly reconstructed with only a bent handlebar on Sheila's surly to remind us forever of the 747 mashing that this time was expensive due to the overload fees as we each went 10kgs over the limit in the hold. traipsed mud through the hotel as all the gutters were filled with little rivers form broken plumbing. The bikes were stored in the cellar down 10 well worn steps in circles. Gerome and Chantell proved s sunburnt and friendly.
A glorious sleep in the quire afternoon to emerge conscious in a vast underground Monoprix with the vasy array of fromage and tasty peches vins and muscatel grapes. So wonderful to have another chance to be here and this time together.
expenses
e 60 taxi
e 13 cafe and croissant
e 24 monoprix diner.
The taxi driver was from Homg kong as well and took us the whole way in eliminating the 4 minute walk with bikes that I'd been dreading for two years in a single well spoken stroke. The ceramic cups and saucers that exactly resembled crumpled plastic ones were a surrealist treat as we began to fall back into australian time at 2pm.
The bikes quickly reconstructed with only a bent handlebar on Sheila's surly to remind us forever of the 747 mashing that this time was expensive due to the overload fees as we each went 10kgs over the limit in the hold. traipsed mud through the hotel as all the gutters were filled with little rivers form broken plumbing. The bikes were stored in the cellar down 10 well worn steps in circles. Gerome and Chantell proved s sunburnt and friendly.
A glorious sleep in the quire afternoon to emerge conscious in a vast underground Monoprix with the vasy array of fromage and tasty peches vins and muscatel grapes. So wonderful to have another chance to be here and this time together.
expenses
e 60 taxi
e 13 cafe and croissant
e 24 monoprix diner.
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