Monday, June 9, 2014

Basel mon 9 june

What a great rest day in so many ways. Artwork, architecture, trams, so much I've always wanted to see. Chagal, Pisarro and  a cool black on black Rothko today at the Basel Kunstmuseum. Along with a ubiquitous set of Rodin Burghers and a simple black Calder floating over a magnificent staircase. A Cranach and Peter Breugals. Then 6 Chaim Soutines a dour and bitter discovery of his subjects innards. His sculpture stands outside  hotel du parc en montparnasse. Apparently there is a well written life narrative. A free coffee too as I waited opening. Very rich collection. It is 35 degrees today so arthouses are cool. Two profound hours with textbook art saved from wartime destruction by a neutral country.

Next stunning Beyerler foundation has its own tramstop and a simply beautiful Renzo Piano building. Subtle air through the floor lighter than air ceilings glass glass opens everything to the wonderful garden. Talliessen stone against white walls. Too good. After our macho nga it was a revelation. Especially with Gerhardt Richter's studied work on display within. 3 metre square glass sheets over the most subtle of differentiated greys. He supervised apparently and used a laser theodolyte with demountable frames according to the guard. Liked the whole show tremendously. A subtle and powerful experience. The Bayerlers were surprisingly unassuming for billionaires with an old kitchen full of prize art. Wore great linen. I gained special permission to take a pic of the family photo humbly framed  next to the vestiare.
Then back to tourist info for cheery anglais and directions to the Tinguely musee. Remember its a holiday and she is the sole bureau du tourisme for so many desperados like I was yesterday.. Cannily she gives me a form to register a complaint and get her better air con. Liked her style.

Jean and Niki What fun they had with kinetics. I've always been fascinated by Jean T and today was a great opportunity to actually see a meta matique drawing machine in action and all that papier...and the worthy pics it made. Simply brilliant. Gotta say today was so profound art wise. Loved it. After all the farmyard camping it all came back into focus. Also to again realize the nga collection while sparse has gems. Our Tinguely, Courbet, Monet, Juan Gris how underated he is, Modigliani. .

So today I found the bike shop, map shop and the exit route a la alps. Have decided to stay another night even though at a 100 bucks it is pricey to get to the Vitra and do me bibs and bobs. Today was a real visual explosion and so profoundly worth it. 

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