Dakar Tues 9th Nov

Today we visit another island off the coast this time l'isle N'gor.  Which is within sight off the coast 10 minutes by decrepit taxi and less so in others. We are given a lift through the sandy streets past deviations and busses with small kids hanging perilously off the back. Open doors, dark populated interiors, one foot hanging free beneath school bags covered in familiar sports logos. Our host explains that it is illegal to overload the buses which seem parlous and worn but that no-one is interested in policing the problem. And we notice the army clothes within the bus. I resolve to ask taxi drivers in our employ to slow down behind buses

We park and walk around a corner like any other, dusty, concrete worn faces with a few straggling plants here and there, the smells of cooking and people and ordure and then suddenly the ocean. Like Grenoble's mountain filled streets (Stendahl's) this was just as surprising to a newcomer. Clean blue sea, sand and long wooden motor boats with high prows and 20 to 30 people to colorfully fill them. We are rudely asked to pay 500 french francs for the return ticket and then we are farewelling our host and waiting amid the severe and attentive looks of many men waiting for something to happen.. We cross the 500 mtres in a trice and are deposited at the jetty privee of the maison  of an Italian restaurant hotel and lido. We swim in clear and beautiful waters behind the safety of a rock wall and sun ourselves while black backs strain in the sun mixing concrete to repair the jetty after a recent freak wave wreaked destruction. I read to the steady rhythmic turn of shovels and the quick silver ringed hands malletting basalt.

The lunch is very Italian cooked by the Roman patron who is charming and  in tune with vegetarianism. He swims delightfully carelessly with his tiny daschund surfing on his back while is wife suns herself and laughs.
We are served by the tallest woman with lovely dark skin beaded hair and shining eyes. She assists her portly patron who is repairing the out door lighting and I laugh as she waves away the ladder he proffers and simply Gomez Adams like reaches up and fits the bulb effortlessly.

 Lolling again this time at the maison d'italia. Hot sun horrific yet gripping history and lapping waves. Vacation.