Saturday, October 16, 2010

Les Eyzies de tayrac

Waking to rain. After a fine petit dejeuner consisting simply of a  sizable jug of black coffee, crispy bread and butter my mood is improved. Caves can still be explored in the rain....but ah non the Font de Gaume rated two star Michelin was closed Saturday and open Sunday. Ride off we are told to walk only a kilometre to see the grand Roc which is open .....after three ks in the rain and cold to boot nous arriverons only to find also closeeed despite all the literature claiming otherwise.
So a pretty damp and coolish walk along the Vezere with loud birds for company under colossal lowering cliffs of limestone we are relieved to be away from cities.
The next musee is closed until two, our siesta sweet and warm.
The national musee dedicated to les Moustier is grand and absolutely filled with millions of small flint flakes and bones and vaguely scratched rocks and more bones. Cro magnon man waves his arms on the roof again under a lowering sky of limestone mixed with rain.
We try the Tourisme office for Internet and are told of the Hotel Centenaire..(.in fact we are rung ahead for introductions) and upon arrival find a $200 a night palace with trees growing inside and grand pianos everywhere...we declare our touriste office credentials and are whisked inside to a great salle de reste with free internet and 15 euros drinks and endlesspiped guttural jazz pianists. Very swish.
Tomorrow an attempt with full bikes to see the wonderful poly chromatic bulls of Font de gaume and perhaps even Montignac only 27ks away.


We read of storms lashin our family's homes and hope all is well.

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