The day starts foggy and ill throated. Packed and ready on the road by exactly on the road onto the sun edged vague was great. The Font de Gaume for which we await over an hour silently awaits us with its bison kissing and horses prancing. The cave is profound the height hugh and the artwork sophisticated and gentle. Who were our long distant moustier ancestors and why did they reach up on ladders with small oil lanterns to animate the walls with already extinct species? Cro Magnon art is deeply satisfying.
Out and off up a 2.3k moderate climb which warms especially as the day is now cloud and cold 5 -7 degrees.
We reach la Roc Christophe and find omelettes and frites to warm ourselves width amidst an autumnal forest with a million leaves falling.
Onwards to complete our 26k day along the vezere missing the little Michelin chevron denoting steep hill. It seems like 4ks and is steep. Our reward is a steady downhill through a delightful green forest along a rushing stream studded with chateaux and farm houses.
We reach Monignac to find it covered with literally thousandes of plastic flowers on strings over every street park, building or bridge…could they have known we were coming?
The locals are tired of the festival attire having had the fete long ago in July.
The hotel has a bath which we both use to wash us and our socks. It is a delight rare and requires ingenuity to empty.
Dinner is delicious the best en France.
We resolve as the temperatures are now predicted to be at night below 7 to refrain from camping and send the aunt home, or give her away should her fright prove more than her worth.
The joy of reducing our load to two light panniers each makes for light hearted mirth over the obligatory Bergerac…2006 this time.
Lets hope la poste works on Lundi’s lest our mirth be on the wrong side of our faces. The hill to Lascaux which we will circumnavigate is rated at Michelin 3 chevrons and 17% ie 17 meters up per 100 along….granny gear material…..
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