Woke early to a parliament of crows and unhappy street gents yowling.
Then a delightful converse with my darling, catching her in the bath on this la jour des mamans en France.
Despite rain forecast rode to Chateau Vicennes louis 9 and charles v's castle. Took the tour and was impressed. This was the Paris donjon for centuries and yet the personality of its builder remains. It became over time the great prison with M de Sade 7 years and Henri IV 2 years its royal guests among others like Mirabeau and Raspail. A medieval walled town its church was plainly ancient. I was told they fitted a life size marble man through a small arched window to relegate his remains out if the main drag. Illustrated below. What an installation task I thought to myself.
I'm endeavouring to cycle all of the 13 main piste cyclables en Paris so took the long way to the musee D'Orsay where again I was overwhelmed by the borrowing and I guess lending power quid pro quo of Paris.
Van Gogh's this time by the dozens. A creative premise and a well thought out exhibition if a bit claustrophobic.
The mega Courbet has returned from its sojourn across the creek at the Louvre and looks fantastic with his other hunting scenes. Man that guy, saviour of the Louvre and great hero could paint a dog. And to discover his wonderful portrait of Hector Berlioz has graced the cover of his autobiography all this time on the shelf at home without me knowing. That's why these holidays are so enlightening.
So tonight is again a semi last en Paris. This place could provide a lifetime of deciphering. Tomorrow I take the piste cyclable to the king's bro's place Orleans.....packing everything into 6 small panniers as we speak...
Wish me luck and ward off the predicted rain for me will you? Ta. Wifi free despite hand washing now for perhaps a couple of days.
Sunday, May 25, 2014
Paris Sun 25 May Vincennes D'Orsey
Saturday, May 24, 2014
Paris Sat 24 May
Amazing art today at the Louvre. What a huge treasury it is. I've sore feet just remembering.
The new Islamic wing was simply tremendous. A lovely dune like golden mesh roof over one of Louis' courtyards. He's got so many he won't miss one. Lovely objects by the 100's. I liked the ancient glass.
Then onto visit all the other old romans. Antinous does outshine his patron Hadrianus, being sculpted as personifying beauty while old beardy H barely gets a mention. Simply staggering the amount in the Louvre. I was in two small sections and occupied for 4 hours.
Then grand palais again for Robert Maplethorpe which was a bit rich american for me. I really enjoyed his Patti Smith portraits and the one of Susan Sontag was great also. She's interred 100 steps away from where I write this.
Weathers a bit arthur and marther but I'm still outta this place after tomorrow via my own voie verte. 57ks to Breuillet.
Friday, May 23, 2014
Augustus and I'm straightened out
Woke early to cool sunshine and promptly rode for an hour to the very edge of Paris to find Thiery of Giant Paris XII at la Porte D'oree who brusquely told me to leave the bike and return at sieze heures.
So after a petit noir to discover which metro line we were on I went to Jeu de Paume (ferme) and then to a wonderful exhibition moi Augustus at le grand Palais.
What a powerful borrower to have all the best of Octavian. At last I got to see the prima porta which is of course in the Vatican dealing as it does with deification. Then the most wonderful busts of all the family, the pompeii paintings and winged tables, massive bowls made out of ancient blue glass, followed by coins, and satyrs erect holding up wash stands. All in a neo classicist palace emulating everything on display within.
The marbles must have taken 3 weeks to install. Excellent show. I'm really better for having been there.
Then home for a bite to eat and a rest. Trammed it back to Thierry and lo the wheel was true and he only wanted 20 euros for an excellent job at short notice so I bought 2 drink bottles.
Pedalled back home the long way through light rain bursts. Got home and it really poured so I rewarded myself with an Italian salade at the local tournesol. What a day. I'm so relieved to be riding a wobble free bike again thanks to a genuinely hard working mechanic.
Thursday, May 22, 2014
Josephine's tiny feet
Woke up early to Paris pigeons cooing. After a good breakfast with real bread and the news of rain at 10.30 retrieved the bike box and put it together in the moist post rain morning. It rained hard overnight. Piled the old bike box on top of the pigeon man's cardboard home. Bike travelled well except for two things: a deep gouge in the paint on the cross bar and two bends in the front wheel. I straightened the wheel enough to ride it tomorrow to the bike shop. Then the rain came down in buckets. As predicted exactly. I decided to walk today.
Visited the local cimitere to pay my respects to Charles, Niki, and Cesar.
Then off to the muses de Luxembourg for an exhibition of Josephine Bonaparte, s stuff. An amazing bone carved tiara and a pair of really tiny boots. She must have been tiny. A good portrait by Prudhon was a highlight. ICOM card gratuit. And my own lane in. Emerged from a very good display albeit with grey carpets to bright sunshine.
Then found my way to St. Sulpice which was dim with big golden candlesticks. The Delacroix St Agnes was OK but being conserved so a little less visible.
Then off to le vieux campeur for camping gas and lo the map of the piste cyclable out of town to Orleans. Yes I knew it was possible and it runs next to gare Montparnasse. No need for a train and on my front door so to speak.
Then ome for monoprix tabouli to rest my worn out feet. I saw so many older tourists stepping gingerly. Moi aussi.
So all in all a very good day. Missing home but activities preclude.
Dubai is posh.
Waiting for the plane en Paris in Dubai for 5 hours! Managed to sleep for 7 hours on the first leg...Dubai is very clean and polished with all humanity wealthily sweeping buy. Met a cool Cameroonian cab driver who took me all the way in the rain squeezing through the traffic with aplomb. Hauled the bashed up bike box down the stairs and into le cave. Beer and pizza with eyes half closed. Then a wonderful shower and sleep glorious and profound sleep.