Trento

Thinking to reduce profligacy we decided to stay in a hostel in Bolzen. What a mistake. E70 and we were deposited in a students room with two beds. Breakfast was pitiable and the room tiny and obviously not what we were promised at the tourist info, then to boot we had this insufferable priest telling me to walk three blocks to get cash and then tried to shake my hand at the end.....I was livid and not oin a good state..... when I complained both to peiropaulo and the Tourist information without any reduction and left the place feeling bad. Coffee and markets and then a beautiful bike path out of Bolzen lifted my spirits again...Straight down the Adige this time with the Dolomiti plunging into the valley on either side. A pair of German girls fully loaded Ortliebs of course had a book which reassured us from time to time of the proximity to Trentino.
The hotel for hot feet was great, just off the path and WiFi to boot with a lift. guess what only E90..
Sheila and I were very grateful for the friendly staff and the lack of four pages of rules ...just the price which was lacking in the crooked Don Bosco dump...

The ride today was beautiful though long at nearly 60ks.

bolzano again

Laughing leaving in the morning after copious coffee of our generous and erudite hosts.
A brief turn of wheels before Treviglio after the compulsory visit to the Bianchi factory to get good deals.

The train was very easy and once the bikes were hooked up we were ok.
Verona briefly and then a 3 hour train trip to Bolzano past the path we will achieve in the next few days.....
Weather is good and we are happy and healthy touch wood.

Bergamo balls and smokin horses

We recieved a personal tour today of the colleoni temple with its testicular entrance duly observed as Joe C and Lino told me.
Then the church with it's smoking horse and Lotto's oddball wooden interasa. Then a glorious walk around the town to view the aqueduct and bibleotec.
Dinner with friends of our hosts who quizzed us as to the price of a hectare of vines down under..
Sleep again with a wonderful rumpled bed filled with macho dreams.....

Gormanghast is

Day dawned crystal clear and hot as we trained it to Verdello and then rode 10 ks to wonderful Lan franco and Federika's enormous old Italian castello.
We we given a tour of room after room with painted ceilings and a glorious view over enclosed courtyards.
The day became very sociable and our minds met in a peaceful and real fashion.
Went to sleep in a huge bed surrounded by antique furniture and 6 metre painted ceilings to dream under.

Drowning in Alpine rain

The whole day has been depressingly wet and we travelled by ferry and train to Bergamo where we thawed out in the 3 star piedmontese. No photos too wet.

Bellagio Maddonnas and Varrenna

Friday 17th sep

Today we separate for the day and I take to the hills behind Bellagio….I am surprised by the 14% road up to the  Maddonaa del Ghisello and the nearby cycling Musee/ Both prove to be worth every minute of an hours hard climb.  The  musee has everything Coppis wooden wheels and bartoli’s smiling face in bronze..  The church was really strange with  bicycles in the ceiling and the maddonna  feeding the baby jesus  with a bidon hahahaa…
I meet aussies and discuss Pantani’s hill climbing. There is his bike and smile everyone is illustrated so debonair….then back down with squeaky brakes…..

Off by ferry to Varrenna with 100 well dressed americans as part of the wedding party. Rode another ten k  to the torre at the top of  the Varrenna hilltop complete with falcons and an owls. The tower was well represented with stones in the wall for steps…

Trains and ferries Lecco

Thursday 16th Sep

Train to Lecco and ferry to Belagio..

The Silvio apartment is  spacious and comfortable.  We are here for two nights.  The Pizza man tells me about the Maddonne del Ghissello and pats his belly as reason when asked why he does not scale the hillsides in her honour.